Seam.



PATENTEDI MAR. 31, 1908.

'S. BURTON.

SEAM. v APPLICATION FILED HA3. 9. 1906. RENEWED JULY 10,1007.

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3 veuto WE lineoeo I UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

STOCKTON BORTON, .OF PROV1DENCE,.RHO'DE ISLAN D, ASSIGNOR TO WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACIfIINE COMPANY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

SEAM.

' Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented March 31, 1908.

Application filed March 9, 1906, Serial No. 306,140. Renewed July 10, 1907. Serial No. 383,114.

To all whom it may concern:

Be itknown that I, STOCKTON BORTON, of Providence, Rhode Island, haveinvented a new and useful Improvement in Seams, which invention is fully set forth in the following specification.

The improved seamconstituting m pres-- 'oin two abutting edges of cut-knit goods and old down, cover and secure the threadends of the rough raw edges, thereby preventing ends from sticking up and marsaid threa ring thesmoothness, appearance andfinish of the seam. This object is, it" is believed, satisfactorily accomplished b the novel arran ement of stitches and tiireads forming sai stitches and correlated thereto, which constitute the seam of this invention, said seam being neat, compact and attractive in both design and a pearance, and may, if desired, be used sole y for decorative purposes.

.The improved seam may be more readily described in' conjunction with the accompanying drawing, illustrating one embodiment 0 the invention, Figures 1 and 2 being plan views of op osite sides, respectively,

showing on an en arged scale two abutting i 4 is an end view,

edges of fabric or out knit goods joined by the seam; Fig. 3 is aside elevation from the ri ht of Fig. 2, with the goods in section; and ig. artly in section, looking from the lower end of Fig. 2.

Assuming the seam to be formed in a suitable tw-othread chain-stitch machine in which the needles operate fromabove, Fig. 1

' shows the upper side and Fig. 2 the lower side of the seam as formed on the goods'in passin through the machine; for-convenience they will be referred to in the descrip-' tion which follows as the upper and er sides ofthe seam. "The seam'may,

' however,be formed in a machine in which the needles operate from below, in which case the relation of the-sides would be reversed. The seam may also be so formed that either of its sides, but preferably. the

side formed b1 the needle and cross threads, appears on t e right or outer oods when in use.

side of the In the drawings 10 and 11 are two pieces...

of fabric, such for exampleas cut knit goods, the opposing or abutting edges of which are brought together along the line 12. The

seam is formed of nine threads, namely, the four needle threads 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the upper side, loops of these threads being carried throu h the goods to the lower side; a cross thread' 5 on the upper side; andfinally four hook threads. 6, 7, 8 and 9 on the lower side. The needle threads 1, 2, 3 and 4 with their corres onding hook threads 6, 7, 8 and 9 form our parallel or approximately parallel rows of stitches, two rows on either side of the meeting line 12 of the two edges to be.

joined. On the upper side, Fig: 1, the cross thread 5, in runnlng to the left, always passes beneath four stitches of the four par allel lines of stitches, all of said four stitches being in transverse alinement; in returning said cross thread passes beneath the next succeedin stitch in each of the two parallel lines o stitches in the fabric 10, but beneath the same stitches in fabric 11. It follows that at the outer ed es of the upper side of the seam the cross tl lread 5 forms a succession .of loops each passing through twoadjacent stitches and connectincgleach end of every stitch to the end of ana jacent stitch. On the under side, the hook-thread 9,. after passing through a loo in needle thread 4,

asses around the shan of the next succeedlng loop in thread 4, then to the right around the shank of a loop in needle-thread 3, thence backward and upward passing a ain through the first mentioned loop in nee le-thread 4, and so on. thread '8, after passing through a loo needle thread 3, passes .around the shan the next succeedln loop in thread 3, then to the right aroun the shank of a loop in needle-thread In a similar manner, the hook- 2, thence backward and upward'again through the loop in thread 3- loop in needle-thread 1, is carrie to the'left I around the shank of a loop-in needle thread 2, thence-around the shank of the-next loop in 7 needle-thread 1, hence backward and upward again through the loop in thread 1 through which it first.passedand --so on. Likewise the} hook-thread 7, after passin through a ward again through. the 100 loopiinl'ne edle thread2, is carrie to the left around the shank of a 100 in needle-thread 3, thence around the shan of the next loop in needle-thread 2, thence backward and upthrough which it first passer -and so on. It thus ap ears (see Fig. 2), that for each stitch in t e left-hand line of two-thread chain-stitches, a-loopapproximately triangular in shapein one stitch-forming thread 9 is extended forward through a loop in the other stitch-forming thread 4 and around the stitches.

crossed or extended laterally to the left.

As shown in Fig. 4, of the three hook-thread loops around the shank of the loo in needlethread 3, the loo in hook-threat 7llies next to the fabric, wit the loop in hook-thread 8 between it and the loop in hook-thread 9; and of the three hook thread loops around the shank of the loop inthe needle-thread 2,

the loop inhook-thread 6 lies next to the' fabric, with the loop in hook-thread 7 between it and the loop in hook-thread 8.

These loops may assume this or any other relative arrangement according to the manner of operation of the mechanism used in the formation thereof.

In the seam formed as ex lained above, the two inside parallel lines of stitches may,

without danger of being pulled out, be

placed very near 'the abutting edges of the two Ir1 ieces of goods 10 and 11, as the outer para el rows of stitches take a wide hold on the goods and are principally relied u on to' resist transverse strain or ull tending to separate the joined edges. 1 he cross-thread 5 on one side and the crossing of the'hook threads on the other side securely binds together the four parallel rows of stitches and therefore distributes and equalizes all strain or pull tending to separate the connected edges. Furthermore, the disposition of the threads, and particularly the crossing'of the hook threads, gives advantageous elasticity to the seam. The crossing of both hookthreads 7 and 8 twice across the line of abutment 12 for each stitch, affords a double covering of crossing threads at the middle of the seam where they are most needed to catch,

hold down and confine rojecting thread ends when the seam is emp oyed toconnect two edges of the cut-knit goods. "At the outer edges of the seam only one of the hook threads (6 or 9)"is crossed between the parin thread 2' threads and secured against the surface of the goods.

As Will be apparent, my invention is capa- .ble of embodiments specifically' different from that herein particularly shown and described. While it is preferably made by a machine of suitable construction, it may be, of course, made by hand, or by a sin le Ithread chain-stitch or a two-thread chamstitch machine.

While I have. explained above embodiments of the invention in which there are four approximately parallel lines-of stitches, other embodiments within the generic invention may have only two approximately parallel lines of stitches.

"As has been explained, an important function of the two outside lines of stitches in the embodiments of the invention shownin the drawing, when .used to join two ed es of work, is to take a wide hold on the goods and resist transverse strain or pull tending to separate the joined edges, from which it follows'that the presence of said outside lines of stitches is particularly useful and important injoin'ing edgesof cut-knit'goods. But in Joining selvages, for exam le, Where there is mater1ally less danger of t e stitches pulling out of the gods under transverse strain or pull, the twooutside lines of stitches may, if esired, be omitted in some embodiments of the invention, leaving on one side of the work only the two inside lines of stitches, a stitchforniing thread. of each line crossing at each stitch into engagement with the other line of stitches. For example, in the s ecific form of the invention shown .in the rawings, the threads 1 6, 4 and 9 ,would be entirely omitted.

Other embodiments of the generic invention, in which lines of single-thread chainstitches are used, are illustrated and describedin an ap lication for United States Letters-Patent led by myself (Stockton Borton) and Llewellyn D. Birge, June 2, 1906. Sr. No. 319,959.

What is claimed is:

1. In a scam, the combination with fabric,

2. In a seam, the combination with fabric,

of four approximately arallel lines of stitches, a stitch forming t read of one outside line crossing at intervals to theadjacent inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, another stitch forming thread of the other outside line crossing at intervals to the adj acent inside line of stitches and stitches, a plurality stitches, .a plurality 0 passing around the thread thereof, and a} stitch forming thread of one inside line of stitches crossing at intervals to the other inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, thereby interconnecting at intervals all four lines of stitches.

3. In a scam, the combination with fabric, of four approximatel parallel lines of the stitch forming threads crossing at intervals on one and the same side of the fabric to adjacent lines of stitchesin such manner as to interconnect all 'four lines of stitches.

' stitches in such manner as to interconnect all four lines of stitches.

6. In a scam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately arallel lines of stitches, a stitch forming t iread of one outside line crossing at each stitch to the adjacent inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, another stitch forming thread of the other outside line of stitches crossing at'each stitch to an adjacent inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, and a stitch forming thread-of one incent inside line of stitches and side line of stitches crossing at each stitch to the other inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, thereby interconnecting at each stitch all four lines of stitches.

7. In a scam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of stitches, a stitch formin thread of each outside line crossing at each stitch to the adjacent inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, and a stitch forming thread of one inside line of stitches crossing at each stitch to the other inside line of stitches 7 and passing around the thread thereof, said crossin of threads being all on one and the same side of the fabric.

8. In a scam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately )arallel lines of stitches, a stitch formin thread of each outside line crossing at eac stitch to the adja: assing around the thread thereof, and a stitc forming. thread of each inside line of stitches crossing at each stitch 'to the other inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof.

9. In a seam, the combination Withfabric, of four approximately )arallel lines of stitches, a stitch forming t iread of each outstitches, a stitc inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, and a stitch forming thread of each inside line of stitches crossing at intervals to the other inside line of stitchesand passing around the thread thereof, thereby ,3 0 interconnecting all four lines ofstitches.

10. In a scam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel. lines of stitches, a stitch forming thread of each line crossing at intervals to the adjacent inside 7 line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, and a stitch forming thread ofeach inside line of stitches crossing at intervals to the other inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, thereby .interg connecting all four lines of stitches, saidcrossing of threads being all on one and the same side of the fabric.

1.1. In a seam, thecombination with fabric, of fohr apnoximately parallel lines of 35 h formin thread of each outside line crossing at eac i stitch to theadjacent inside line of stitches and )assing around the thread thereof, and a stitc 1 forming thread of each inside. line of stitches 0 crossing at each stitch tolthe other inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, said crossing of threads being all on one and the same side of the fabric.

12. In a seam, the combination with fab- 5 ric, of four approximately parallel lines of stitches the stitches ofeach line being formed. of two threads, one of said threads of some of the lines of stitches crossing at intervals to an adjacent line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, thereby interconnecting the two inside lines of stitches and each outside line of stitches with its'adjacent inside line of stitches.

. 13. In a seam, the'combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of two-thread chain stitches, one stitch forming thread of some lines crossing at intervals to an adjacent line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, thereby inter- 0 connecting the two'inside lines of stitches and each outside line of stitches with its adjacent inside line of stitches.

14. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of 5 two-thread chain stitches one stitch forming thread of some lines crossing at each stitch to an adjacent line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, thereby interconnecting the two inside lines of stitches and each outside line of stitches with its adjacent inside line-of stitches.

15. In a scam, the combination With fabric, of four ap roximately parallel lines of two-thread 0 rain stitches, some of the stitchforming threads crossing at intervals on one and the same side of the fabric each to an adjacent line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, thereby interconside line crossing at intervals to the adjacent l necting the two inside lines of stitches and each outside line of stitcheswith its adjacent inside line of stitches all on the same side of the goods.

16. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of four ap roximately parallel lines of two thread c aim-stitches, some of the stitch forming threads crossin at each stitch on one and the same side 0 the fabric each to an adjacent line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, thereby interconnecting the four lines of stitches.

17 In a scam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of two-thread chain-stitches, one stitch forming thread of each outside line crossing at each stitch to the adjacent inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, and one thread of each inside line crossing to the other inside line of stitches and passin around the thread thereof, said Crossing 0 threads being all on one and the same side of the fabric.

18. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of two thread chain-stitches, some of the stitch formin threads at intervals crossing to adjacent ines of stitches and assing around shanks of the loops thereof t rough which loops other threads pass, thereby interconnecting all four lines of stitches.

19. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of two-thread chain-stitches, some of the stitchforming, threads at each stitch crossing to adjacent lines ofstitches and passing around shanks of loops thereof through which loops other threads of the respective lines pass, thereby interconnecting all four lines of stitches, said crossin of threads being all on one and the same si e of the fabric.

20. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of two-thread chain stitches, one thread of each 7 outside line crossing at each stitch to the adjacent inside line and passing around the shank of a 100 therein through Which loop another threa of the particular line passes, and one thread of each inside line crossing at each stitch to the other inside line and passing around the shank of a loop therein through which loop another thread of the particular line passes,'said crossing of threads being all on one and the same side of the fabric.

stitches, a plurality of the stitch forming threads crossing'at intervals on one and the same side of the fabric to adjacent lines of stitches in such manner as to interconnect all four lines of; stitches, and on the other side of the fabric a cross thread connecting twp or more of the lines of stitches at interva s.

22. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of four a proximately parallel lines of stitches, a p urality of the stitch formin threads crossing at each stitch on one an the same sideof the fabric to adjacent lines of stitches in such manner as to interconnect all four lines of stitches, and on the other side of the fabric a cross thread connectin two or more of the lines of stitches at eac stitch.

23.. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of four approximatel parallel lines of stitches, a plurality of t e stitch formin threads crossin at each stitch on one an the same side of the fabric to adjacent lines of stitches in such manner as to interconnect all four lines of stitches, and on the other side of the fabric a cross thread connecting the two 'outside lines of stitches at intervals and passing under the inside lines of stitches.

24. In a seam, the combination with fab ric, of four approximately parallel lines of in threads being all on one and the same si e of the fabric, and on the other side of the fabric a cross thread connecting thetwo outside lines of stitches at each stitch and passing under the inside lines of stitches.

25. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of two-thread chain stitches, one thread of each outside line crossing at each stitch to the adjacent inside line of stitches and passing around the thread thereof, and one thread of each inside line crossing to the other inside line of stitches and passin around the thread thereof, said crossing 0% threads being all on one and the same side of the fabric, and on the other side of the fabric a cross-thread connecting the two outside lines of stitches at each stitch and passing under the inside lines of stitches.

26. In a seam, the combination With fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of two-thread chain-stitches, one thread of each outside'line crossing at each stitch to the adjacent inside line and passing around the shank of a loop therein through which therein through which loop another thread ofthe particular line passes, said crossing of threads being all-on one and the same side of the fabric, and on'the otherv side of the I fabric a cross-thread connecting. the two inside lines of stitches at eachstitch and passing under the inside lines ofstitches.

or extended laterally around the thread of the adjacent inside line of stitches, and a loop of stitch-forming thread of each stitch in one or each inside line of stitches being extended forward and penetrated by a sue ceeding stitch in its own line and crossed'or extended laterally around the thread of the other inside line of stitches, said arrangement of 100 s being on one and the same side of the fabr1c.

'28. In a scam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of stitches, a loop of stitch-forming thread of each stitch of each outside line of stitches being extended forward and penetrated by a stitch-forming thread of each stitch of one or each inside line of stitches being extended. forward and penetrated by a succeeding stitch in its own line and crossed or extended laterally around'the shank of a loop in the stitch-forming thread of the other inside line of stitches, said arrangement of loops being on one and the same side of the fabric.

29. In a scam, the combination with fabric, of two approximately parallel lines of two-thread chain-stitches, aloop of one stitchforming thread of each stitch in one line being extended forward through a loop of the other stitch-forming thread of said line and penetrated by a succeeding stitch in its own line and crossed or extended laterally around the thread of the other line of stitches, and a loop of another -stitchforming threadof ea'ch stitch in the other line of stitches being extended forward through a loo stitch-forming thread of said ine and penetrated by a succeeding stitch in its own line and crossed or extended laterally around the thread of the other line of stitches, said arrangement of loops being on one andthe same side of the fabric.

30. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of two approximately parallel lines of two'- thread chain-stitches, a loo -or one stitch-forming'thread of each stitc in one line being extended forward through a loop ofthe other stitch-forming thread of said line and enetrated by a succ'eeding stitch in its own 'ne and crossed or extended laterally around the shank of a loop in the thread of the other line of stitches, and a loop of another stitch-forming thread of each stitch in the other line of stitches being extended forward through a loop of the stitch-forming thread of said line and penetrated by a sucof the other v ceeding stitch in its own line and crossed or extended later-ally around the shank of a loop in the thread of the other line of stitches, said arrangement of loops being on one and the same side of the fabric.

31. In a scam, the combination with fab ric, of two approximately parallellincs of two-thread ch ain-stitches, a loop of one stitch .forming thread'of each stitch in one line being extended forward through a loop of the other stitchforming thread of said line, around the shank of the next succeeding loop in the last-named stitch-forming thread, and crossed or extended laterally around the shank of a loop of the other line of stitches,

and a loop of another stitcl1-for1ning thread of each stitch in the other line of stitches be ing extended forward through a loop of the other stitch forming thread of said line, around the shank of the next succeeding loop inthe last-named stitch-forming thread, and crossed or extended laterally around the shank of a loop of the other line of stitches.

32. In a scam, the combination with fabric, of two approximately parallel lines of two thread chain stitches, a loop of one stitch-forming thread of each stitch in one line being extended forward through a loop of the other stitch-forming thread of said line and penetrated by a succeeding stitch in its own line and crossed orextended laterally around the thread of the other line of stitches,

and a loop of another stitch-forming thread other stitch-forming thread of said ine and enetrated by a succeeding stitch in its own ine and crossed or extended laterally around the thread of the otherline of stitches, said arrangement of loops being on one and the same side of the fabric, and a cross-thread extending back and forth between the lines of stitches on the other side of the fabric.

33. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of two approximately parallel lines of chain-stitches, a loop of stitch-forming thread of each stitch in one line being extended forward and enetrated by a succeeding stitch in its own inc and crossed or extended laterally around the thread of the other line of stitches, a loop of another stitch-forming thread of each stitch in the other line of stitches being extended forward and penetrated by, a succeeding stitch in its own line and crossed or extended laterally around the thread of the'other line of stitches, said arrangement of 100 s being on one and the same side of the abric, and a cross-thread extending back and forth between the lines of stitches on the other side ofthe fabric. 1 34. In a scam, the combination with fabric, of two approximately parallel lines of .chain stitches, each line being formed of two threads, a needle-thread and a hookthrough a 100 of the needle-thread of said 7 line, around t e shank of the next succeeding loop msaid-needle-thread, and crossed or extended laterally around the shank of a loop in the needle-thread of the other line of stitches, and a loop of another'hook-thread of each stitch in the other line of stitches being extended forward through a loop of the needle-thread of said line, around the shank of the next succeeding loop in said lastnamed needle thread, and crossed or extended laterally around the shank of a loop in the needle-thread of the other line of stitches, said arrangement of loops being on one and the said side of the'fabric.

35. In a seam, the combination with fabric, of four approximately parallel lines of chain stitches, each line being formed of twofthreads, a needle-thread and a hookthread, a loop of the hook-thread of each stitch of each outside line of stitches being extended forward through a loop of the needle-thread of saidlin'e, around the shank of the next succeeding loop in said needlethread, and crossed or extended laterallytended laterally around the shank bf a loop in the needle thread of the other inside line of stitches, said arrangement of loops being on one and the same side of the fabric.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses. 1

STOCKTON 'BORTON. Witnesses R.H.CHA1*MAN, Loans E. ETIENNE. 

